“Some places leave you with a long list of things you’ve done. Yorkshire left us with a feeling.”
When we planned our journey through Yorkshire, we expected beautiful landscapes, historic houses and excellent food.
We found all of those.
But what stayed with us most wasn’t a single attraction or a particular view. It was the pace of the journey.
Yorkshire seemed to invite us to slow down from the moment we arrived. Long lunches replaced hurried meals, walks became destinations in themselves and conversations with the people we met added as much to the experience as the places we visited.
For anyone looking to discover England beyond London, Yorkshire offers something wonderfully different.
If you’re planning a longer trip, Yorkshire pairs perfectly with a few days in London. You can find more inspiration in my guide to spending time in the capital before heading north.
This five-day journey combines historic cities, stately homes, spectacular countryside and unforgettable food.
Our route included:
York: A City Made for Wandering
Arriving in York by train feels like stepping into another era.
Within a few minutes of leaving the station, we arrived at The Grand, a beautiful hotel housed in the former headquarters of the North Eastern Railway. It was the perfect base for exploring the city entirely on foot.
One of the things I loved most about York was how easy it was to wander without an agenda.
The city doesn’t ask you to rush from one monument to another. One minute you’re walking through the peaceful Museum Gardens, the next you’re standing beneath the soaring towers of York Minster. A quiet lane suddenly opens onto a medieval square, while ancient city walls reveal unexpected views over rooftops and gardens.
We spent our first afternoon doing exactly what I think York deserves. Simply walking.
The following morning we explored more of the city, visiting the Minster, climbing sections of the city walls before weaving through the Shambles and its surrounding streets.
We paused for tea at Bettys that have been welcoming visitors for more than a century.
A Lunch That Captured Yorkshire on a Plate at Roots
If there is one meal I would encourage anyone visiting York to experience, it is lunch at Roots.
We were served a tasting menu inspired almost entirely by the surrounding landscape. The famous Yorkshire pudding, seasonal vegetables, herbs, locally sourced ingredients and beautifully balanced flavours told the story of the region far better than any guidebook could.
Rather than relying on elaborate presentation or unnecessary complexity, every course felt thoughtful and deeply connected to Yorkshire itself.
What impressed us just as much as the food was the atmosphere. Despite holding a Michelin star, Roots feels warm rather than formal.
The team are passionate without ever being intimidating, allowing guests to relax into the experience. It became one of those lunches where time simply disappears.
For us, Roots wasn’t simply one of the best meals of the trip, it became part of the reason Yorkshire will stay with us for a long time.
Core menu : £110
Before leaving, we couldn’t resist taking home a copy of Tommy Banks‘ cookbook. It’s a wonderful way to relive the flavours of Roots at home. And if you can’t make it to York just yet, you can still order the book online and enjoy a taste of his seasonal cooking wherever you are.
If you’re planning your own culinary journey through England, you’ll also enjoy my review of Ekstedt at the Yard in London, another restaurant where exceptional food tells the story of its surroundings.
From City Streets to Country Lanes
After two nights in York, we exchanged elegant city living for something completely different.
Our home for the next two nights was The Green, one of the holiday cottages on the Castle Howard Estate, tucked away in the peaceful village of Coneysthorpe.
Almost immediately, the atmosphere changed.
Instead of planning the next attraction, we found ourselves enjoying the simple pleasure of sitting outside with a cup of Yorkshire tea before setting off for the day.
The cottage felt less like holiday accommodation and more like borrowing a home in rural Yorkshire.
Walk to Castle Howard
Following a quiet lane known as The Stray, the route takes around thirty to forty minutes and gradually reveals the famous dome rising above the trees. It was an adventure in itself!
Georgie, the Marketing and PR Manager at Castle Howard, smiled and warned us about one thing. The nettles. She was absolutely right.
In early summer they line many sections of the path, making sturdy shoes and long trousers a wise choice.
Castle Howard: A House That Still Feels Like Home
Rather than heading straight inside the Castle Howard, we began with lunch at the entrance of the estate in the courtyard.
We then headed towards the Castle, because we were staying at The Green, we had free entrance and a 20 pounds voucher to use in the Castle Howard shops.
Before entering the house, we were fortunate to spend some time with Georgie, Castle Howard’s Marketing and PR Manager, who had kindly agreed to an interview ahead of our visit. Hearing the stories behind the estate from someone so passionate about its history added a completely new dimension to our experience before we even stepped inside.
Georgie explained that Castle Howard dates back to 1699, when Charles Howard, the 3rd Earl of Carlisle commissioned the architect Sir John Vanbrugh to create an ambitious family home. Later joined by Nicholas Hawksmoor, the project took almost one hundred years to complete. Today, the estate stretches across around 9,000 acres of Yorkshire countryside, while the house and formal gardens occupy approximately 1,000 acres.
What stayed with me most, however, wasn’t the history.
It was one simple sentence.
“That’s what makes Castle Howard so special. This is still a family home. It’s not a museum. We’re not fixed in time.”
Those words completely changed how we experienced the house.
As we explored the magnificent interiors with the excellent audio guide, each room felt less like part of a museum collection and more like a home that continues to evolve. The Howard family still lives here today, and knowing that added a wonderful sense of life to every beautifully furnished room.
The impressive art collection, much of it acquired by the 5th Earl of Carlisle during his Grand Tour through Europe, sits alongside family portraits, treasured furniture and centuries of history, creating a house that feels both grand and deeply personal.
When I jokingly asked Georgie whether Castle Howard had any ghosts, she laughed before giving my favourite answer of the interview.
“Generations of people have lived and worked here. I’m sure memories, spirits and stories live in the fabric of the building.”
It’s difficult to think of a better description.
Beyond the House
As beautiful as the interiors are, don’t rush back once you’ve finished your tour.
Some of the greatest pleasures of Castle Howard are found outdoors.
The formal gardens gradually give way to sweeping parkland, peaceful lakes and beautifully planted borders bursting with seasonal colour. During our visit to the Secret Garden, we were surrounded by some many beautiful summer flowers and growing vegetables, which just brought out the gardener in me.
Elegant peacocks wandered freely across the lawns and terraces, seemingly unfazed by visitors. Their graceful presence added a touch of grandeur while reinforcing what Georgie had told us earlier: this is still a living estate, not a perfectly preserved museum.
A gentle walk from the house leads to the Temple of the Four Winds, one of Sir John Vanbrugh’s most elegant architectural creations. Perched on a hill overlooking the Howardian Hills, it offers one of the most spectacular views across the estate.
During our visit, the temple was home to Library of the Four Winds, a remarkable installation by renowned British artist Es Devlin, created as part of the Vanbrugh 300 celebrations. Inside, the historic temple had been transformed into a circular library filled with hundreds of books, inviting visitors to pause, read and reflect while surrounded by the Yorkshire landscape. It is a beautiful example of how Castle Howard continues to blend history with contemporary art, creating new reasons to return.
Before leaving, we spent time exploring the estate’s shops, which are well worth a visit in their own right. The House Gift Shop offers beautifully curated books, homeware and gifts inspired by the house, while the Farm Shop showcases some of Yorkshire’s finest local produce, from artisan cheeses and freshly baked bread to local preserves, estate-reared meats and Castle Howard’s own gin. Thanks to the welcome voucher included with our stay at The Green, it was the perfect place to pick up a few local treats before walking back to the cottage.
North Yorkshire Moors Railway
One of the experiences I had been looking forward to was travelling on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. There’s something wonderfully nostalgic about boarding a heritage steam train. As it winds its way through the North York Moors, past forests, open heathland and charming rural stations, the journey becomes just as memorable as the destination.
Our final stop took us into the North York Moors and the picturesque village of Goathland. With its free-roaming sheep, peaceful atmosphere and beautiful walking trails, it was the perfect way to end our Yorkshire adventure.
We arrived aboard the historic North Yorkshire Moors Railway before setting off on the walk to Mallyan Spout, looping back through Beck Hole and finishing with one of the best lunches of our trip at Homestead Kitchen.
Goathland deserves far more than a few paragraphs, so I’ve written a dedicated guide covering the walk, the village and our unforgettable lunch at Homestead Kitchen. Read my complete guide to Goathland here.
Later that afternoon, we boarded the steam train back to Pickering, watching the moors drift past the carriage window and reflecting on what had become one of our favourite days in Yorkshire.
Planning your own slow journey through Yorkshire?
If you’d like help creating a personalised itinerary filled with memorable restaurants, boutique stays and experiences like these, I’d love to help you design a journey that lets you travel at your own pace.
Looking for more UK inspiration? Here are a few of my favourite places to stay and eat across England.
