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Goathland: Where Time Slows Down in the Heart of the North York Moors

Goathland was one of the highlights of our journey through Yorkshire. If you’re planning a similar trip, you’ll find this village as one of the stops in our complete Yorkshire itinerary, which combines York, Castle Howard, the North Yorkshire Moors and unforgettable food experiences.

If Goathland ever held a census, the sheep would be running the village. They wander the streets like lifelong residents, leaving visitors smiling and looking a little more carefully at where they put their feet.

Beautiful Walks Around Goathland

Lunch at Homestead Kitchen

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Tucked away in the heart of the North York Moors National Park, this small Yorkshire village feels wonderfully untouched. Stone cottages line the quiet streets, the surrounding moors stretch endlessly into the distance, and sheep wander wherever they please, reminding you that this is very much their home rather than ours.

It is the kind of village where you naturally slow your pace, breathe a little deeper and simply enjoy being outside.

A Village Shared With Sheep

One of the first things you notice in Goathland is the number of sheep. They are everywhere.

You’ll find them grazing on the village green, wandering alongside the roads, relaxing in front of cottages and occasionally deciding that the middle of the street is the perfect place to stop for a rest.

It all adds to the charm, but visitors should come prepared. Where there are sheep, there is also plenty of sheep droppings. Comfortable walking shoes are definitely recommended, especially if you’re planning to spend the day exploring the village and nearby trails.

Rather than being an inconvenience, it simply reminds you that Goathland remains an authentic farming village where nature comes first.


Beautiful Walks Around Goathland

We arrived in Goathland aboard the historic steam train from Pickering, one of the highlights of our Yorkshire itinerary. Watching the moorland roll past before stepping into this charming village made the experience feel even more special.

One of our favourite walks was the route down to Mallyan Spout, the tallest waterfall in the North York Moors.

The walk begins gently before descending through peaceful woodland, right next to The Mallyan Spout Hotel. As you get closer to the waterfall, the path becomes more adventurous. The final section requires crossing large stepping stones along the stream. After rain these stones can become slippery and wet, so good footwear and a little care are essential.

One of the unexpected sights along the trail is a weathered tree trunk studded with hundreds of coins. Over the years, walkers have hammered pennies and other coins into the wood, following a long-standing tradition believed to bring good luck or make a wish. Whether you choose to add your own coin or simply admire this unusual piece of woodland folklore, it’s a charming reminder that generations of visitors have walked this same path before you.

The effort is well rewarded. Hidden amongst ancient woodland, Mallyan Spout tumbles around 21 metres through the trees, creating one of the most peaceful spots in the national park.

From the waterfall, we continued our walk through the peaceful hamlet of Beck Hole before looping back to Goathland, where a well-earned lunch at Homestead Kitchen was waiting for us.

Lunch at Homestead Kitchen

After a morning spent walking through the North York Moors, our next stop was Homestead Kitchen, one of the culinary highlights of our Yorkshire itinerary.

Hidden inside a beautifully restored farmhouse overlooking the surrounding countryside, this family-run restaurant perfectly reflects everything we love about slow travel. The atmosphere is relaxed, welcoming and unpretentious, while the cooking celebrates the very best ingredients from Yorkshire’s fields, coastline and kitchen gardens. The restaurant has earned a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainable cooking and locally sourced produce.

We chose the seasonal lunch special, which costs £40 for three courses (or £35 for two courses) and also includes the restaurant’s signature bread course.

The meal began with one of the restaurant’s signatures: warm homemade moorland stottie bread served with silky Hartlepool kipper butter and an indulgent caramelised Botton cheese fondue. It’s one of those courses that immediately tells you you’re somewhere special.

Our starter was a beautifully refreshing gazpacho, packed with summer flavours and exactly what you hope for on a warm Yorkshire afternoon.

For the main course, perfectly cooked pork belly arrived with seasonal vegetables and an elegant sauce that balanced richness with freshness. The pork was wonderfully tender with crisp crackling, showcasing the kitchen’s confidence in letting quality ingredients speak for themselves.

Dessert celebrated the best of the season. Sweet Yorkshire strawberries were paired with creamy ice cream and a buttery crumble that added just the right amount of texture. It was light, fresh and the perfect ending to a leisurely lunch.

What made the experience memorable wasn’t just the food. It was the calm pace of the meal, the attentive yet relaxed service and the beautiful views across their vegetable gardens. Nothing felt hurried. It was exactly the kind of lunch that encourages you to linger over coffee before heading back out to explore.

If you’re visiting Goathland, I would genuinely recommend making a reservation in advance. Whether you choose the lunch menu or the tasting menu, it’s one of those restaurants that becomes part of the destination itself rather than simply somewhere to eat.


Prudom House
Goathland
North Yorkshire YO22 5AN

Approximate price:

  • Two-course lunch: £35 per person
  • Three-course lunch: £40 per person
  • Chef’s tasting menu: from £95 per person.

Why Visit Goathland?

Goathland isn’t a place full of attractions that demand your attention. Instead, it invites you to slow down.

Walk through ancient woodland. Watch sheep wander across the village green. Pause beside the stream on the way to Mallyan Spout. Finish the day over an exceptional lunch made from ingredients grown and gathered just a few miles away.

Sometimes the best places aren’t the busiest. They’re simply the ones that remind you how enjoyable travelling slowly can be.

Planning your own slow journey through Yorkshire?
If you’d like help creating a personalised itinerary filled with memorable restaurants, boutique stays and experiences like these, I’d love to help you design a journey that lets you travel at your own pace.

Goathland may be one of Yorkshire’s smallest villages, but it left one of the biggest impressions on us. Between the steam train, the walk to Mallyan Spout, the wandering sheep and an unforgettable lunch at Homestead Kitchen, it perfectly captures the slower pace of the North York Moors. If you’re planning a trip through the region, take a look at our complete Yorkshire itinerary to see how Goathland fits into a five-day journey through one of England’s most beautiful counties.

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