Some destinations are shaped by their landscape. Naoshima is shaped by both landscape and art.
Scattered across this small island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea are contemporary museums, sculptures, extraordinary architecture and artworks hidden inside old houses. And the experience doesn’t end on Naoshima. Nearby Teshima and Inujima form part of a wider collection of art islands where the journey between them becomes part of the experience.
We travelled here after visiting Hiroshima and Miyajima and stayed overnight at Benesse House, sleeping quite literally inside a museum. We also explored Naoshima with a private guide and travelled across to Teshima.
It became one of those journeys where I stopped thinking about how many things we could see and simply enjoyed being surrounded by art, sea and space.
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How to Get to Naoshima
Getting to Naoshima is part of the adventure. The island is most commonly reached by ferry from Uno Port, which is easily accessible from Okayama or Hiroshima by train. Once you arrive, the Benesse House shuttle can pick you up.
If you’re traveling from Hiroshima, check ferry and train schedules in advance to make the journey smooth.
Staying at Benesse House: When the Museum Becomes Your Hotel
For my birthday, I decided to treat myself: one night at the Benesse House Hotel with a private guided tour of Naoshima and Teshima.
The unique concept of sleeping inside a museum means you can admire world-class art even after closing hours. Our family room was minimalist yet beautifully decorated, with large windows, a balcony overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, and thoughtful touches like a welcome gift.
The staff arranged everything seamlessly, including our private guide, making our stay truly special.
What makes staying here so special is the feeling of having more time. Once the day visitors leave, the rhythm changes. There is no need to rush back for a ferry or squeeze everything into a few hours. You can simply stay with the experience a little longer.
Art, Architecture & Things to Experience on Naoshima
What makes Naoshima so unusual is that art isn’t confined to one museum. It appears in extraordinary buildings, old village houses, gardens and along the coastline. Even moving between the different sites becomes part of the experience.
Chichu Art Museum
Designed by Tadao Ando, Chichu Art Museum is built largely underground so that it doesn’t overwhelm the surrounding landscape. Natural light plays an important role in the building and even changes the way the artworks are experienced throughout the day.
The collection is deliberately small, with works by Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter De Maria. This isn’t a museum to rush through. The architecture, light and spaces between the artworks are just as much a part of the experience.
Lee Ufan Museum
Another collaboration with Tadao Ando, the Lee Ufan Museum brings together the work of Korean-born artist Lee Ufan with minimalist architecture and the surrounding landscape.
There is a wonderful sense of calm here. Stone, concrete, open space and views towards the sea all become part of the art.
Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery: Time Corridors
This gallery brings together photography, sculpture and architecture in a beautifully considered space. I particularly like the idea behind its name, Time Corridors, because the experience encourages you to slow down and really look rather than simply move from one artwork to the next.
Valley Gallery
Set within the landscape near Benesse House, Valley Gallery is another example of the way art and nature come together on Naoshima. The outdoor setting makes the experience feel very different from visiting a conventional gallery.
Yayoi Kusama’s Pumpkins
Naoshima’s pumpkins have become symbols of the island. The yellow pumpkin sits at the end of a pier overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, while the red pumpkin welcomes visitors near Miyanoura Port.
They may be among the most photographed artworks on Naoshima, but seeing them within the landscape is part of their charm.
The Naoshima Art House Project
One of my favourite experiences was the Art House Project, where abandoned houses in the residential village of Honmura have been transformed into works of art.
Our guide, Hisako Kashihara, took us through the different locations, each completely different from the last.
I won’t tell you too much about what is inside. Part of the pleasure is opening a door without quite knowing what you’re about to discover.
This is also where Naoshima feels particularly special. Art isn’t confined to a museum building. It sits among homes, narrow streets and everyday island life.
Beyond Naoshima: Teshima Art Museum
Naoshima may be the best-known of the art islands, but it isn’t the only one worth discovering.
We travelled by private boat to nearby Teshima to visit the Teshima Art Museum. Calling it a museum almost feels misleading. There are no conventional galleries filled with artworks. Instead, architecture, water, light, air and the surrounding landscape become the experience.
Visitors remove their shoes before entering and photography isn’t allowed inside. I actually loved that. Without a phone or camera in your hand, you simply experience the space.
It is difficult to describe without taking away some of its magic. This is one of those places I would rather encourage you to experience for yourself.
Practical information for visiting the Naoshima art islands
How long do you need?
I would stay for at least one night, and preferably longer if you want to combine Naoshima with Teshima. Trying to fit everything into a day would take away much of what makes these islands special.
Getting there
Naoshima is reached by ferry. I travelled via Uno Port after Hiroshima and Miyajima. Check ferry and train schedules carefully when planning your journey, particularly if you have timed museum reservations.
Getting around
Naoshima can be explored using local transport and on foot, while guests at Benesse House also have access to the hotel’s shuttle service. We arranged a private guide through Benesse House for part of our stay.
Museum reservations
Some museums and art experiences require advance or timed reservations. I recommend checking the individual museum websites before travelling rather than leaving everything until you arrive.
Where to stay
I stayed at Benesse House, and for me, staying overnight was part of the experience rather than simply somewhere to sleep.
Best for
Contemporary art, architecture, island landscapes, slow travel and anyone who enjoys destinations where the journey is as important as the individual sights.
Travelling Cooks tip: Don’t try to see every museum and every island. Choose what genuinely interests you and leave space for ferry rides, walks and the unexpected art you encounter along the way.
When art becomes the journey
What stayed with me most about Naoshima and Teshima wasn’t one particular artwork.
It was waking up overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. Travelling by boat between islands. Walking through quiet residential streets and discovering art behind an ordinary doorway. And experiencing architecture that made me stop and pay attention to light, water and space.
The art brought me here, but the islands themselves became part of the experience.
And perhaps that’s why I remember this journey so clearly.
Slow down. Savour more. Reconnect.
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